Glasgow central station, Tuesday 05:30 am. Sitting on a bench waiting to board the train home I keep trying to draw some conclusions about where I’ve been for the last four days. In some trips you visit a place, visit monuments and locations; on the Scottish Isles you visit not only a place but the people that live there and their philosophy of life. But let’s begin from the start….
It is Thursday evening and I rush out of the office and to the train station: destination Glasgow. My friend Andrea is already there and the plan is to visit Arran and Islay following a sort of brewery and distillery trail. We have a solid plan and we think we got it all figured out with ferry transfers, check-ins and check-outs and guided tours all booked and timed. But, you see, one thing is to have a plan another totally different thing is to really know what to expect from a place never visited before. I arrive in Glasgow just before 10pm and after dropping my stuff at the hotel we decide that a couple of pints are what we need given the nature of the trip. After a quick stint in a pub and another in a karaoke pub/bar we stumble in The Pot Still whisky bar and decide that it would be a good idea to have a couple of drams because, you know, when in Rome… whisky! (or whiskey in the Irish version). The Pot Still has been there from 1867 and it has a quite rich history of ownerships, and characterful punters. Today, on top of the charming and welcoming atmosphere, it offers over 700 different whiskies, some of which are from distilleries now closed and therefore extremely rare. Each glass is served to your likings (if you know what you are doing) and/or with a good dose of knowledge and insight from the staff.
Friday morning is an early start: by 8am we pick up the rental car and rush to Ardrossan for the first ferry transfer of the trip. TIP: if you plan to visit the Isles ferry booking is essential if you are moving by car. Based on my experience I’d say that 3 weeks in advance is the minimum if you want to make sure you can select your preferred route and timing. After about an hour we are in Brodick and after checking in at the B&B it is time for a stroll and a quick lunch. In Brodick there are some choices but I recommend Crofters’ but remember to reserve, the place is not too big and with the quality of the food they serve it fills up quickly. It is now time for the first tour: Arran Brewery. It is only a small brewery and the method is very traditional but in over a decade of operation they developed a large variety of beers to cater for every taste. The tour of the small facility offers the opportunity to understand and appreciate the process also for those who are not familiar with it, explaining the importance and function of every ingredient starting from the water sourced only a couple of miles away on the surrounding hills. On the way back Brodick Castle and its gardens are worth the time for a visit and give a good insight on how the island has always had its own micro-world built around the community and its daily life activities. Brodick offers a fairly lively night life for its size. A few places offer live music every evening and, in some places like the Brodick Bar and Brasserie, you will find an entertaining atmosphere together with good service and great local dishes. TIP: here on the Isles is all about people. A night out is an event not because it is like Ibiza here but because of the friendliness and candid honesty of the people. Don’t be surprised if you find yourself talking about some pretty important or personal topic with a local you just met.
Brodick waterfront 
Brodick Castle 
Arran Brewery
Saturday morning, as it were, it is another early one. With a 30 minutes drive (after an encounter with the deer living on Arran) we are in Lochranza to catch the first ferry to Claonaig on the Kintyre peninsula where we need another quick drive to get to Kennacraig. Time to board the ferry for Port Askaig: Islay here we come! TIP: I tried to book the ferry from Lochranza to Claonaig but CalMac staff told me it could not be booked. My suggestion is to talk to them if you have any doubt about any of your planned transfers, they are very helpful and will help in any possible way, don’t be shy and pick the phone up!!
The last 15-20 minutes of the approach to Port Askaig is quite something especially when the ferry enters the narrow stretch of water separating Islay and Jura. Both islands look beautiful from the water and both display a wild natural temperament. There is hardly a building on the visible side as we approach and also roads and other infrastructures are not that obvious. On Jura the view is dominated by the Paps which are three very distinctive mountains which enhance the already very wild vibe that Jura has. As we disembark after almost 2 hours of navigation I get the sense that Islay isn’t any less untamed than Jura and the road to Port Ellen and its route and scenery leave no doubts. NOTE: Even if you are adamant (as much as I am) that you are a semi-professional racing driver, I suggest you might not know what you will have to deal with when driving on Islay unless you already drove on Cornwall’s country roads. On Islay some main roads are only large enough for one vehicle at the time. Of course there are lay-by where needed but, in some cases, for the less adventurous drivers that might be barely sufficient.
From Port Askaig to Port Ellen it is a short drive and the road cuts through a landscape that feels immune to the passing of time. Autumn is in full swing with its dramatic colours that enhance, if possible, the strong contrast between the blue sky and this land marked by low bushes, pastures and solitary trees. Check-in done at the Askernish B&B and after chat with Joy, that is the proud owner of the B&B, it is already time for our second tour at the Laphroaig distillery.
The distillery was funded in 1815 by the Johnston brothers Donald and Alexander and it takes its name by the very location it is built on. A thing you will hear in many distilleries’ tours is the fact that the distillation process was, most likely, “imported” on the isles by Irish monks. There are 8 working distilleries and, by visiting Islay, it is easy to understand why this industry is so prominent in the area. The wild and remote nature of the island, together with the defiant and independent spirit of its inhabitants created the perfect environment to develop a trade that otherwise could have been destroyed in its infancy by bureaucracy and taxes too high to allow a living. Quite picturesque are the stories of the distilleries emptying their casks and stills in the same sea from where, sometimes powerless tax-men, would approach the premises to redeem the dues. Laphroaig offers a variety of tours ranging from a simple testing flight at their in-house bar to an extensive 5 hours tour that takes the participants from the water source to the final product. They also have a programme called “Friends of Laphroaig” that offers the possibility of a life-time lease on a plot of land nearby the distillery water source.
After the tour, there is just enough time for a stroll and some photography around picturesque Port Ellen before it is time for a quick pint at the pub and then dinner. Bear in mind that Port Ellen is not that big but it can get quite busy and there are not too many restaurants. Joy, rightly so, recommended to book for dinner and, having experienced it, I recommend to you to do so unless you want to end up eating a take-away. My recommendation are the Sea Salt and the Islay Hotel which has a nice restaurant and also a bar with occasional live entertainment.
Sunday is another glorious day (got quite lucky with the weather!). With a bit more time on our hands we decide that a drive around is the best option to see as much as possible before our next tour that will render driving impossible. The first stop is, almost by chance, at the Kildalton Old parish Church and its famous Celtic style cross. This place is something to behold in my opinion and it is well worth a visit. A sign on the gate of the church says:”Marauding sheep will be our fate if you do not close this gate”. I like these little details, sometimes they might just be an insight on the traditions and believes of the people that live in a certain place. The next stop is Bowmore, on the other side of the island. The first place we visit is the Kilarrow Parish Church also know as the round church because… it is round. It was build in the late 1700 and the circular shape was chosen so that there would not be corners where the devil could hide… clever if you ask me! Also Bowmore has its own distillery which is the homonymous Bowmore distillery which we refrain from visiting (at least this time). Back in the car and we head off to Port Charlotte but decided to pass through and see where to road ends. NOTE: as said, we did not stop in Port Charlotte but I got the sense that it is a very charming village and I believe there are quite good establishments for a stay or a good tasty meal.
Kildalton cross 
Kilarrow Parish Church 
Portnahaven bay
The road (A847) eventually ended to Portnahaven and in my view it is worth the trip. There isn’t a view point for the village, the entire village is a view point out at sea with its beautiful little bay and the typical houses built around it. Maybe it is because of the glorious sunny day but I find every corner of Portnahaven very characterful, from the lighthouse to the small streets; if I ever come back to Islay I would consider staying here as one of the main options.
After a quick lunch and a few clicks it is time to go back towards Port Ellen to be on time for our third and last guided tour at the Ardbeg distillery. Ardbeg history is a story of a raise, a fall, a not so big raise, another fall and a raise again! Funded in 1815 (same as Laphroaig, remember?), in 1887 reached an output of 1.1 million liters per year (a s#@t load of whisky if you ask me!) and after a few ownership’s changes, between 1981 and 1989 was closed and production stopped. After another change of ownership in 1989 it produced small quantities for blenders before closing again from 1991 till 1997 when, finally, they resumed full production. Why am I talking so much about it? Because I love a good story about resilience, courage and believe in an idea. But I talk about it especially because I think this story is as much about this distillery as it is about the people of Islay and their positive outlook on things and approach to life. The Ardbeg distillery offers tours of their factory (I encourage you to visit different distilleries and see the differences) and have an in-house bar and cafe’. Finally, if you really want to immerse yourself if a full blown whisky experience, you can also stay in their factory cottage.
After the tour we go back to Port Ellen and after a walk and a couple of cold ones it is time for dinner and another evening talking to the locals and listening to some folk music.
Monday morning already and it is time to go back… eventually. We spend the morning walking around and along the costal path that goes from Port Ellen to the distilleries. That gives us a chance to take a look at the Lagavulin distillery, at least from outside. Today the weather is not as good as in the previous days and it reflects a bit the way I feel about having to leave. For good measure and to melt away a bit of this “nostalgia” we grab lunch the Ardbeg’s cafe’ and after the last few clicks we are away towards Port Askaig for our afternoon ferry back to Kennacraig. It is a tight schedule and according to Plan A, I have to be in Glasgow on time to take the 8:10pm train back home which means a drive with no stops from Kennacraig to Glasgow. Of course plan A exists only so that Plan B can exists. The CalMac ferry arrived late anyway and with Plan B already in the bag, f$@k Plan A! We enjoy the ride along the Kintyre peninsula and we are finally back where we started. I’m dreading Tuesday morning because I will have to catch the 5:30am train, rush home and then to the office. Well, there isn’t much more I can do except enjoying another evening in Glasgow with a friend I won’t see for the next few months. Tomorrow is tomorrow and will think about it when it comes!
