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Explore Lake Como from the right prospective

by Fortunato Strumbo
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Explore Lake Como from the right prospective

As travel restrictions are slowly lifted and eased by the majority of countries, for us travellers and explorers it is time to put some more substance on the travel ideas we dreamed of during lock-down. Sadly, COVID19 is still affecting our lives even if to a lesser extent and this is true also for our travel habits. It is hard to say how each one of us is affected and it is equally fair to say that each one of us will come up with our own travel plans based on how comfortable we feel with what is happening in each country but I believe that, in general, there are a few approaches that might work for the majority of us eager to get back on the road.

One of these approaches is “short and localised”. What do I mean I hear you ask? What I’m suggesting is that one way of tip-toeing our way back into travelling could be to plan for short trips (long weekends for example) and in a restricted area with the idea of diving as much as possible in the tradition, costumes, attractions and history of that place. The advantages of this approach are that a short staying allows for more flexibility should things change and making our staying as localised as possible allows us to monitor and track our exposure risk with more precision. In some areas there are very precise data relative to the infection and its spread and it is for sure a great advantage to have to worry only about a localised area instead of a big area.

If that makes sense for you, one strong recommendation I have is a long weekend on Lake Como and precisely in the area known as the “Triangolo Lariano”. “Triangolo Lariano” literally stands for “Triangle of the Larius” where “Larius” is the Latin name Romans gave to Lake Como. The lake is shaped like a “λ” (Greek letter Lambda) and the “Triangolo Lariano”
is the peninsula separating the two southern branches. Here are three villages which are an absolute must-see and I recommend you do so starting from the right prospective, the water!

Varenna seen from the water

VARENNA

Varenna is a very picturesque and traditional small village on Lake Como shores. Despite being small there is quite a lot to see starting from the church of San Giorgio built in the 14 th century and displaying works of art dating from the 15th and 16th century. To be noticed is the style of the church which is an interesting mix of Romanesque and Gothic and the use of
local material like the marble used for the floor of the building. If you are feeling adventurous, before you explore the shore side of Varenna, I recommend to pay a visit to Castello di Vezio. The castle is situated nearby Varenna and Perledo (another small village) and it was built in the late 11 th century even if it is very likely that, because of its position, it was erected on existing fortifications dating Roman times. There are also legends that link the castle to the Lombard queen Teodolinda whose spirit is said to wander in the castle’s walls during full-moon nights even if she is actually buried in the city of Monza. Meeting Teodolinda’s spirit is not guaranteed but, in visiting Vezio, you can count on enjoying the falconry centre that hosts and trains birds of prey and you can visit the standing exhibition displaying the remains of the Lariosauro, the lake very own dinosaur!

Moving towards the lake side of Varenna a must see is Villa Monastero. The villa is named like this because it used to be a monastery and, after changing ownership and usage a few times, it is now an international conference centre. From March to November the villa is open to the general public and it is possible to see the museum displaying works of art spanning four centuries and the beautiful botanical garden with many rare species. From Villa Monastero it is a short walk to Riva Grande where it is possible to enjoy a walk along the “Passeggiata degli innamorati” (literally “Lovers’ promenade”) which offers beautiful views of the lake and surrounding mountains; need anything else for a romantic escape?

Approaching Bellagio by ferry

BELLAGIO

From Varenna, with a quick ferry ride, you can reach the tip of the “Larian Triangle” where Bellagio is located. Bellagio is also known as the “pearl of the lake” and once you get there it is not difficult to figure out why. The views are stunning and quintessential Lake Como with the waters of the lake and the dramatic mountains almost clashing in stormy days and, in calm sunny days, merge in a peaceful serene picture. Don’t just take my word for it, Bellagio’s beauty fame is praised and better described in the words of Lord Byron and Stendhal which spent some time here and wrote about their experience.

Probably the best way to start getting to know Bellagio is to take a stroll in the winding cobbled streets of the town where you will find a lot of shops selling local products and artefacts. A walk is also the best way to pay a visit to San Giacomo’s basilica which was built between the 11 th and 12 th century in Romanesque style. I also recommend to check the view from Punta Spartivento which is the exact point where lake Come splits in the eastern and western branch.

Bellagio is also home to some of the most beautiful villas on the lake. The two most famous are Villa Serbelloni and Villa Melzi. Villa Serbelloni is a five start luxury hotel but, even without being a guest, it is possible to visit be beautiful gardens by booking a guided tour. Villa Melzi, built in the 19 th century, is privately owned but between April and October is open to the public and offers access to the museum, the private chapel and the world famous botanical gardens which include many varieties of exotic trees and plants such as azaleas and rhododendrons which offer an amazing spectacle when in bloom during spring.

Last but not least, if you decide to base your stay in Bellagio, plan for a day at the beach and if you want to make your experience even more immersive consider the village of Pescallo. Pescallo is a small fisherman’s village hidden beyond the hill surmounting Bellagio and it is 10-15 minutes’ walk away from the town centre and it is connected to it by the typical cobbled narrow streets and stairs.

Menaggio from the ferry terminal

MENAGGIO

Menaggio sits on the western shores of Lake Como and it was there even before the Roman conquest in 196 BC and culminated amongst the other things with the construction of the “Via Regina” which is still in use today and it is the road that connects Como to the northern part of the lake.

Menaggio is composed of two main parts, the upper part which id the mediaeval part of the town and the lower lake-side part. The mediaeval part is characterised by the remains of the walled castle which can still be seen and visited today. Walking up the narrow streets leading to upper Menaggio is a bit like stepping back in time and I’m sure you will be charmed by the views that can be admired on the way up.

The discovery of the like-side part of the town should start, in my opinion, from Piazza Garibaldi where the promenade actually starts. Here you can opt for break in one of the various café and bars but it is also the best point of access to Santa Marta’s church which preserves some interesting painting from the 17 th century.

Santa Marta’s church seen from Piazza Garibaldi

Whilst in Menaggio I absolutely recommend a visit to Villa Carlotta which is one of the most beautiful and important villas of northern Italy due to its gardens but also its extensive and rare art collection and Villa Balbianello which is famous for its beauty and its location that made it ideal shooting location for Star Wars and Bond, James Bond!

I really hope you found this post useful and bear in mind that if you decide to visit these three towns you can do so on foot or by car. The advantage of having a car at your disposal is that you have more flexible access to other nearby places to visit should you wish to do so. You ca find more info in my previous post here.

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2 comments

david smith 20/07/2020 - 11:27

An informative, interesting and alluring article, that has me wanting to visit Lake Como more than ever. I will, one day, visit this area, and then refer back to this article for advice. Thank you Fortunato.

Fortunato Strumbo 23/07/2020 - 08:44

Hi David,
thank you for your positive comment. When you decide to go there feel free to give me a shout if you need any extra pointer 😉

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